Giuseppe Poggi’s terrace above San Niccolò, built when Florence was Italy’s capital, looks straight across the Arno to the dome. A copy of Michelangelo’s David stands at the centre.

Climb the steps from Piazzale Michelangelo to this Romanesque basilica, built between the 11th and 13th centuries. Visit Monday to Saturday, 9.30 am–1 pm and 3.30–6 pm.

On #domenicalmuseo, the first Sunday of each month, state museums including the Uffizi, Pitti, Accademia and Bargello are free. The Accademia takes no bookings that day, so expect queues.

Entry to the cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is free, with no booking or ticket, Monday to Saturday from 10.15 am to 3.45 pm. It is closed on Sundays and during religious celebrations.

The covered cast-iron market of 1873 serves the neighbourhood with food stalls inside and flowers and household goods outside. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 am–2 pm.

Just below Piazzale Michelangelo, the Giardino delle Rose holds more than 350 rose varieties, sculptures by Jean-Michel Folon and a small Japanese garden. Open all year, with free summer events.

In 1593 Grand Duke Ferdinando I moved the butchers off Ponte Vecchio and allowed only goldsmiths and silversmiths to trade there.

Ponte Vecchio, built in 1345, was the only Florentine bridge the retreating German army did not blow up in the Second World War.

On 17 February 1530, during the siege by Charles V’s troops, Florentines played calcio in the square to mock the enemy. The tradition continues every June.

The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella opened to the public in 1612; its shop still occupies the former chapel of San Niccolò.

The historic centre is a limited-traffic zone Monday to Friday 7.30 am–8 pm and Saturday 7.30 am–4 pm; cameras fine unregistered cars. Give your plate to your hotel, or park at Parterre or a tram park-and-ride.

The city tax is charged per person per night for up to seven nights: €3.50–€8.00 in hotels by star rating, €6.00 for short lets; under-12s are exempt. Most state museums close on Mondays.

Born from the Dominican friars’ herb garden and open to the public since 1612, the frescoed shop sells perfumes, soaps and rose water. Daily, 9.30 am–8 pm.

Founded after the Second World War by Santa Croce’s Franciscan friars with the Gori and Casini families. Watch the leather workers through the garden behind the basilica.

The open-air stalls around Via dell’Ariento sell leather goods, clothing and accessories, Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am–6.30 pm. Compare quality and ask where the leather was made.

Marbled-paper notebooks, albums and boxes, hand-decorated since 1976, from a shop facing the Duomo. A light, flat gift for the suitcase.

Jewellers have lined the bridge since Ferdinando I’s decree of 1593, beside the bust of Benvenuto Cellini. Browse the window displays, then step inside to talk to the makers.

For edible souvenirs: food shops under the 1873 cast-iron hall, flowers and household goods outside. Monday to Saturday until 2 pm.