Most of Phang Nga Bay is about scenery; Koh Panyee is about people. Roughly 1,600 residents, around 360 families, live on an island of just 0.13 square kilometres, in houses and walkways raised over the water. Fishing is still the main livelihood, and the community speaks Thai and Malay. Walking the narrow wooden lanes, past drying fish and small shops, gives the bay a human scale that the famous rock towers cannot.
The village also has a story worth knowing. Because Thai law once limited land ownership to people of Thai origin, the founders built over the water instead, and the first buildings on solid ground were a mosque and a freshwater well. Today the golden-domed mosque is the community's meeting point, and the floating football pitch, built by local boys inspired by the 1986 World Cup, is its best-known sight.