Mai Khao is the beach for people who want room. The national park describes it as roughly 9 to 10 kilometres long, the longest on Phuket, running from near the airport towards the island's northern tip. Resorts are few and far between, vendors are scarce, and you can walk for a long time without meeting a crowd. In the late afternoon the light is wide and warm, and the sea and sky seem to go on for ever.
The beach also has a story. Mai Khao was once an important sanctuary for sea turtles, which came ashore to nest between November and February, though the park reports that no turtle eggs have been observed there since 2013. Today, the draw is quiet and scale: a long, empty shoreline, with the occasional airliner crossing low overhead at the southern end on its approach to Phuket airport.